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Back smith metal scribe12/6/2023 ![]() Get a nice block of walnut that is similar and color and grain to the stock. I recommend assembling the receiver outside the wood to get a clear picture of how it all works prior to assembling in the wood when the gun goes back together. Usually there is a small hole cut into the back of the cut outs for the lock that lets you insert a pin or wire and manipulate the parts into alignment. Its spring loaded by the barrel lock and does not want to line up properly. The hinge pin in the ones I have worked with runs from top to bottom and the lower pivot point is in the lower tang. The only big trick is getting the lever that works the barrel lock back in place. Most of the assembly and disassembly of the LC's I have worked with is rather simple. The reasons behind this have been discussed in other threads on SXS guns recently and I don't think we into it again. The barrels on your gun are a nice pattern welded type (Damascus) so no gunsmith will tell you its safe to shoot it. The fore arm is a classic splinter type fore arm on most LC's, so its easy to carve. The LC's I have worked with are well fitted guns and locked up tight. ![]() If it fits properly on the hinge joint, it will be as tight as the other joints in the metal work. The steel piece you have is designed to snap tightly against the bottom of the barrel, and pull away with moderate force applied to the tip of the wooden for arm. It should just snap in place with the snail shell spring resting against the lug on the bottom of the barrel. You should be able to test fit the iron parts and see if it will work. The part you bought from Numrich looks like what I have seen on other LC Smiths, but I am no LC expert and the only ones I have handled are the newer internal hammer variety. They were one of the better American made shotguns in that era.
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